12 Common Problems Of A Land Rover Range Rover (L405)

What problems does a Land Rover Range Rover (2012 – 2021, L405) usually have? In this blog, we’ve outlined the most important things you should watch for when you’re in the market for a Land Rover Range Rover. In the rest of the article, we’ll discuss every single problem in detail. Furthermore, we’ll tell you how to identify it, fix it and how much it costs to fix. Read on!

Problems of a Land Rover Range Rover (L405) include a shutting down hybrid version (2013-2015), a sluggish transmission because of faulty adaptive software, clunking noises indicating the transfer case needs new fluid or the front control arm, bushings, and sway bar are worn, and failure or unexpected lowering of the suspension.

However, that doesn’t tell the whole story. In the rest of the article, we’ll discuss every single problem in detail. Furthermore, we’ll let you know how to identify it, fix it and how much it costs to fix. Read on!

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The Center Console Sliding Cover Won’t Remain Open/Closed

The sliding cover on my 2016 L405 centre console cover is sticking, is this a common problem , and is their a fix around.

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This was mainly a problem in the 2016 model year. This problem seems to be caused by some dirt and debris stuck where the lock clicks in. You can clean the area with a toothbrush where it’s supposed to go in lock mode. Use soapy water and clear all that debris around the area, and you will get back the liberty of an open center console and/or a closed one, for that matter.

Fake Vents

The Range Rover exterior doesn’t have any significant issues, only some minor ones. One minor issue worth mentioning is the fake vents that have been used. Which might be okay for some and not for others—it’s one of those things. Is there anything you can do about it? Well, probably not. You have to live with it.

The Hybrid Variant Shuts Off Out Of Nowhere

It is a common problem that would occur if the Rover (mainly 2013 – 2015 hybrid versions) kept on driving on electric mode only, placing all the work on the starter motor, resulting in complete failure. A way to avoid this issue is to use the stop-start option. It will take all that load off the starter, and you should be ready. 

The last breakdown was a complete electrical failure at 60 mph on the outside lane of the 4 lane section of the A46. When this happens you have no drive, either electric of diesel, no assisted brakes, no assisted steering and no instruments.

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An alternator replacement can cost you around $1000 in the aftermarket, which you can replace DIY if you are the wrenching type and save yourself about $350–$400. The OEM ones are going to cost you $2000+ on replacement.

Transmission Feels Sluggish, And The Throttle Response Has Diminished A Lot

It is common to have experienced sluggish throttle. It could happen due to several reasons. However, a simple reset can solve the problem in most cases.

You have an adaptive learning mechanism that learns how you give input and calculates how it should react. But sometimes, dealerships would mention the risk factor or doing a reset—the transmission can cause issues, given that you have accumulated 100k+ miles; as the system learns to adapt with the normal wear and tear, the reset could cause problems.

However, it has been seen that the reset does solve the problem. You might initially experience some adjustment problems; it will return to normal after a week. The throttle response overall will be much better.

It is also advised to replace the transmission fluid while at it. Replacing the transfer case and differential fluid can also be one of the preventative measures to keep it well lubed so it does not cause any problem down the line.

To perform the reset, follow the steps below.

• Press the start button one, do not crank the engine
• Hold down the accelerator for 15 seconds
• Press the start button again to cut the power off
• Release the accelerator
• Wait for about two minutes
• Start the engine and drive

Getting the turbo to spool up is worth mentioning. If you are driving with a feather foot, you might always have your turbo at rest. Be a little more fun when driving, and give it a go every once in a while—It will keep things running. Check the oil pressure as well, just in case.

Clunking Noises Coming From The Rear When Accelerating And/Or Making A Turn

These noises can be due to many different reasons. A bad transfer case fluid is the most common, which requires replacement every 80k miles. It often needs to be replaced twice at a time, as all the old fluid needs to be flushed thoroughly. This replacement will likely make these clunks come to a rest. And you can finally have a smooth shutterless ride.

However, if the problem persists, you can check the front control arm, bushings, and sway bar for any wear and tear—these need to be changed every 30k–40k miles costing $2000+, although the clunk they made is different compared to the clicking that you hear due to the transfer case fluid problem.

To differentiate between these clunks, if you hear this noise at low speed when gently accelerating and not when you floor it, change and flush the transfer case fluid, have a fresh one topped up, and call it a day. You can take the suspension components replacement route if the clunks are heard while going over bumps.

Road Grip Is Not That Great

This problem is more prominent in the base grade models, while the performance models with V8 with their stiff suspension will be a little less prone to this boat-like maneuverability on highway speeds. 

You can tackle this problem up to an extent by using the dynamic model. However, there might be other problems that cause this issue. The first thing that you should check is the air suspension itself. See if the Rover loses height after it has been parked for a while.

Leaks in the air suspension or a problem with the air pump can disrupt the driving experience. The air suspension on the Rover is expected to last somewhere around 50k miles, so if it has crossed that number, it could mean that your suspension components would need replacement.  

I have mentioned the common suspension issues in the suspension category.

Other everyday things to check:

• Alignment
• Tire pressure
• Wheel balancing
• Tire tread

Tires with a lower profile can also cause abnormal suspension behavior when driving over bumps at highway speeds. It is also advised to have the latest software update; it sometimes solves electronics-related issues.

A rare instance that causes this problem to an alarming extent is the loose connection of the body with the chassis. Ensure that you have it inspected; the groove that connects the body/frame to the chassis might have come loose.

Having more sway than a standard car is common in SUVs, so a bit of sway is not to worry about; if the sway or wobble feels alarmingly high, check all the components mentioned here.

The Air Suspension

It is one of the most feared problems in the Range Rover community. The air suspension is said to go out around 50k miles. So if you are looking at a Range Rover with more than 50k miles, you should ask whether or not it has been replaced. If it hasn’t been replaced before, you might have to do it out of your pocket.

Loses Height

If your Rover loses height, it could be the front solenoid valve block. Or it can be a leaky strut (it could be both even). To properly inspect, you must remove the grill under the wipers. Under the hood hinge on the passenger side, spray the lines with soapy water to look for any leaks.

If the strut is leaky, that would be an expensive fix, costing $1000+. Repairing the problem can be possible, but the problem will likely come back; it’s better to go for a new one.

You can remove the line from the reservoir to see if it holds air. You will see one in and two out on each strut. Slowly open the line from the reservoir to prevent blowing out the fitting. If there is a backflow in the supply line, your solenoid valve block is the one at fault. Now, this is a reasonably inexpensive fix.

The solenoid valve block costs about $70 in the aftermarket. However, I would advise you to go for the OEM one. It would cost more, but you won’t have problems like power supply issues. 

The replacement is not that hard. If you are the type who DIYs stuff, you can easily reach the solenoid by removing the passenger side wheel and wheel well covers and getting to it. Make sure to have extra fasteners if you break some while removing the cover.

O2 Sensors (You Might Get A P2774-00 Code)

This is one of the instances where the O2 sensor code will be given by a scanner tool. However, if the problem does not directly relate to a fault in the O2 sensor, it might be a lean situation (your engine is running on less fuel than required) caused by another problem.

There are a couple of things that you can check.

• See if the PCV system has got any leaks
• See if the exhaust system has got any leaks
• Check the fuel injectors; if they are clogged, have them cleaned
• Check the throttle body if it needs cleaning

For starters, you might also get an opinion of adding fuel injector cleaner in your fuel tank, which is a terrible idea. It would be best never to put something in your tank that the manufacturer disapproves of. Most manufacturers don’t allow additives as these are known to damage your fuel system and can potentially cause harm to your engine components.

The only thing you should worry about is the grade of the fuel you are using. Premium 91 Octane (R+M)/2 is recommended, so always run premium gas. However, if you don’t find a premium available where you are, you can use the lower grade, but only for the time being.

The APP Connectivity Problem

It’s a common problem to see with the automatic parking feature. The Range Rover will do this trick only if the app can connect to the vehicle, which is often very frustrating. It only connects 50% of the time, and there is nothing you can do about it—This problem exists, and you would have to live with it.

Range Rover Acting Crazy Showing All Kinds Of Lights On The Dashboard

It is a problem that is seen quite some times, which happens due to electrical wiring issues—which is an aftermath of another issue.

It all starts with water drainage that runs behind the fenders, gets clogged, and then the water makes its way inside the cabin, potentially causing a short circuit in the wiring as rust starts forming on the ground studs. (which is the most common cause)

The dealership might quote you thousands of dollars on replacing a bunch of parts. Make sure they have checked the whole wiring for any voltage drop or abnormal reading instead of just replacing the entire thing. Have them inspect the area behind the front fenders that may have encountered water in case of clogged pipes.

Replace the connectors that have been corroded, and your problem will most likely be solved. I have mentioned that in detail in the exterior section for the drainage pipe issue.

The Alternator Goes Bad

The alternator goes to heaven, causing the system to shut down after about 40 minutes, and the battery gets completely drained. You will see a message of the charging system fault followed by a battery check light, after which the system will go funky, and the Rover will shut down.

The alternator has been seen giving up at about 100k miles. So if the Rover you are looking at has crossed this mark or is close to this mark, this issue is understood. If your Rover is at around 50k miles, it might just be a bad ground connector corroded due to water damage.

These bad alternator symptoms are similar to when you have a ground connector issue, which I have gone into in detail in the previous section.

The alternator would require replacement once it has gone to heaven. The dealership quote is $2000+ for the replacement. You can replace it yourself if you are a wrenching type. You will find video tutorials on how to do so as well. It would quickly become a nightmare if you are not the DIY type and do not have prior experience.

The DIY expense, however, is only about $500. So if you want to save money, you can replace it DIY. I would recommend the OEM ones as the aftermarket won’t be reliable.